Wednesday, June 10
Seven hours to Millinocket with Stacey Clark driving, it’s HOT! We dropped 4 resupply boxes on the way! Chatted the whole way, it was great. The folks at Shaw’s Hiker Hostel are great- took a pic of their #- they said to call if I need absolutely anything! It’s mid 80’s here & sunny- weather looks good for tomorrow- so far I am the only one starting tomorrow! I will not worry Aleta with that bit of info.
Friday, June 12, but telling about Katahdin*, too!
Because I was trying to set up the tent in the rain (got it up-good thing for for inflatable Nemo pad- kept me dry- because the floor was wet.
*Katahdin is insane! Bouldering a mountain, one wrong step, you die! Went up Hunt Train (7:20 AM) came down Abol Trail- the difference is that Abol is a rock slide- 2-4 ft. rock to rock-instead of 6-8 ft. rocks- literally if you slip- you could fall off of the mountain going up. Steeper on the way down & some scree. I was toast! Then I set the tent up in the rain (it was beautiful hiking!) So wet. Bugs are pretty intense, too, yesterday- black flies, today- mosquitos! 11.2 miles got up to Katahdin peat at noon- under 5 hours down at 3:30- so 8 1/2 hours, then 2 miles up [from Abol Stream campground on the road back to Katahdin Stream campground] all under 10 hours. Yay me.
Very sore today- but went all the way to Hurd Brook lean-to. Nice day- hot- no breeze BUT DELUGE when I tried to set up the tent- T-storms- too wet to even stay in- so I am in the lean-to tonight with 3 others (one woman) 2 men- great “bath” in Hurd Brook- washed up in Katahdin Stream yesterday.
Last 3 miles were tough today. I have a blister on my right big toe from my camp shoes (walking to the market in Millinocket.) I will not show Aleta any pics of Katahdin until we are home- too scary- it was INSANE! She’d be worried! Tom could not do it.
Charging my phone today. 13 miles today, just 7:30-3:30.
Saturday, June 13
Hiking all day with wet feet, splitting my foot open, but no blood, good thing. Ended the day at Rainbow Lake Dam, Karen and Igor came in their sea plane – I showed them my foot- Igor built me a fire so I can dry my socks! He is coming back over with his 1st aid kit. Sunny day hiking up Rainbow Ledges- sent everyone a message- then along Rainbow lake- thought I popped a blister but the bottom of my foot actually split! View of Katahdin at the end of the lake.
Sunday, June 14
Remember Igor and Karen from Kittery & their sea plane! Foot was fine this morning! I imagined the fibers of my foot binding together last night- then I felt a pulse there (NOT throbbing- a pulse) when I woke up it was fused back together! Dry feet all day today. Sunrise at Rainbow Lake was EPIC, reflection of Katahdin.
Hiked most of the day w/ Zamboni (Sydney) she stayed at Rainbow Stream lean-to (2 miles from me) so she was leaving when I got there- we are at Wadleigh Stream lean-to w/ Redline & a guy from PA. Good hiking today but had to use Far Out to figure out the way 3 times! Blow-down a trail leading to a brook that was not the AT- Blisters turning into calluses on little P & PT loo! I would like to get to Antlers tomorrow…I went 10 miles today, that would be 13 miles- but just one hill- we will see how I feel!
I love this! Lots of fun. Finally I got a bit of appetite this afternoon! I was able to send out messages from Nesuntabout Mtn today!
Monday, June 15
Hiked 13.5 (?) to Antlers tent site- I am the only one here- lake too shallow for a decent swim, but I did get in to wash up! I am conserving food- I am a day short, but I think I will be ok! Wet log bridges are slippery but I know that I have good balance.
Tuesday, June 16
CRAZY LOUD swirling wind at Anters last night- but everything is DRY! It was eerie!
What a cruisy nice day- by myself mostly. Ran into Redline & Zamboni at Antlers on the way out. Trail was great- found a way toward the pond to cross Mud Brook w/out taking off my shoes- Cooper Brook falls lean-to site is AMAZING! Waterfalls- a pool to swim in at the bottom of the falls! Skinny dipped twice- once on my own when I got here- once w/Zamboni when she got here. Got here at 1 pm and relaxed near the falls. 7.9 miles today- ate my last full meal at 2- I was a day short- I have a PHS [Post Hike Shake] for breakfast tomorrow- then resupply at Johnson Pond Rd. 3 others showed up after we were dressed again! Brad from White River Jct! Words are insufficient to describe the beauty of Cooper Brook Falls! Probably will be the favorite spot of my adventure.
Wednesday, June 17
Easy light pack from Cooper falls to Johnson Pond Rd- then resupply! HEAVY! Tough 8 miles after that- 11.7 miles. Very tough- Cold water at Logan Brook- a little cold, not very buggy- but nice! A few rain showers. Zamboni saw a moose at a spring. Got a regular size Sawyer [water filter] great decision!
Thursday, June 18
Hiking Whitecap mountain was exhilarating and so beautiful! I left at 6 am to try to beat the rain (heard 3 PM T-storms, 11AM rain & 8 AM rain) it was the one mtn of 4 above tree line it was incredible! Steep decent going SoBo [southbound]. Started raining after Hay (the 2nd mtn) but not too bad in the woods. Got to Carl Newhall just after 11 just under 8 miles in just over 5 hours. Not bad for 4 peaks! Rain is pretty steady & I was cold & wet when I stopped- but got water, had a PHS- started dinner soaking (all after setting up my tent) then went to the brook- got clean (ran up the steps 150 ft. naked to my tent) Then was able to get into my dry night clothes & I am warming up now! Hopefully rain stops for tomorrow!
Friday, June 19
Everything was wet in the AM! I got really cold last night! Wanted to do 17 miles today- and it was looking good- but the chairbacks [mtn range] kicked my ass! First a ford of the west branch of the Pleasant River (which slowed me down) then over a total “Fuck Me!” landslide! Slippery roots&rocks- but no rain today- so got 10 miles to Chairback Mtn. Lean-to (set up the tent in the lean-to) hopefully 11 or 15, then 11 or 15 to Monson! I have a dry tent! Left my Kerrits leggings and Vuori bra at Logan Brook hanging in a tree. Zamboni upgraded my trail name [Southbound] to “yard sale”.
Sunday, June 21
Arrived at Shaw’s Hiker Hostel about 2:30- after a 10 mile day- couple of “take off your shoes” water crossings. But nothing like yesterday crossing the waste high raging river w/the help of a rope! Didn’t write yesterday because it took 12 hrs and 40 minutes to go 15.5 miles! Maine is Rocks, Roots & Rain! But I love it! Incredible views!
Monday, June 22
My ankles are stiff. Love Shaw’s! Oops! Need to check laundry! Poet & Hippie Chick, who run Shaw’s, made all the hikers burgers last night for Solstice! Yummy! I had 1 1/2 (shared 1/2 w/Solo) I bought a jar of pickles to share (and potato salad to eat myself.)
A foot rub & bed for me! I am clean, dry, warm, fed with real food & happy!
Tuesday, June 23
The “0” at Shaw’s was great- but I am ready to get back to the trail! The guy from the Pub is making me eggplant parm before I leave! (Incredible!) and I will do the road walk around because there is high water at the 2 crossings of the Piscataquis river (per NoBo guys) and it’s been raining (supposed to stop around noon). Maybe 12 miles today? More? May the next leg of the trip begin! Missed the PO yesterday will need to wait until 9:15 today to leave!
Arrived at Moxie Bald Pond lean-to, set up camp and Jordan & Maya showed up! I did do the USFS road walk around- it was a good day! Went through Blanchard, ME- TINY town. Maybe 16-18 miles? Heavy pack- but mostly on the road (all but the first 3 miles and the last 5 miles) Said goodbye to Zamboni today (she drove me to the old trailhead) I did plenty of miles today.
Wednesday, June 24
13 to 14 miles- took just under 11 hours- Moxie Bald Mtn. Was lovely- so was Middle- but that was a LONG uphill. Didn’t think I was going to ever get there. Pleasant Pond was great- did a dip & wash!
Thursday, June 25
Saw 2 river otters playing at a river crossing today! So cool. Met Tim at the Sport Camp (old cabins) and had lemonade, met Rob the ferry canoe crossing guy- at Pierce Pond- great swimming- tenting out met guys who are staying on the pond who canoed over to fish and they have lunch- they gave me a turkey sandwich! (W/pepper jack & mayo! It was incredible!) Lost my washcloth :(. Changed my reservation at Spillover to 28th & 29th. Hope I can make it that far.
Friday, June 26
Made it to Flagstaff State campsite on the lake-rainy day- most is wet- but the lake was nice to clean up in! Set my tent up fly first- I am getting pretty good at rain/tent control! Saw 2 groups of adventure campers! Told them how much this experience will affect their lives & it is great they are doing it (and told them about my time on the Allagash Waterway!) Rain stopped, but everything is drippy- no dry shoes 🙁 – Still having a great time. Hope it is sunny and dry for the Bigelows tomorrow!
Saturday, June 27
Kylee & Mike’s wedding! Aleta says all is well. Hiked from Flagstaff Lake to the col after Avery Peak in the Bigelows- it was tough! But no rain! I am tenting by the creepy old fire tower cabin- I didn’t realize there were tent platforms further down (by the spring) 2 other women are here, Patti- who I met yesterday (she has achilles tendonitis) and Ma Gellan – headed NoBo- who I just met at the spring- we are all solo hikers! Yeah! It was dry all day today and so far at night, too! I am in need of laundry! My guide* showed me how to look in the spring box for H2O- I stepped on it- looked for water then started to head on- but then went back and looked UNDER the boards- that is where the spring water was. They are looking out for me! [*all along I have felt as if there have been guides sent by the Universe to help look out for me, keep me safe, and help me with decision making, this was an example of that.]
Maya & Jordan just showed up at the tentsite- even though they are going another 3 miles to the next lean-to, they want to watch the sunset! Maya had my insoles that I left at one of the shelters! Too funny! I told them “Love you both!”
Sunday, June 28
Hiked down! Went to all Bigelow Peaks! (Add .4 for North Peak) tough downhills! Patti’s hubby hiked in and switched packs with her- she was having issues with her achilles tendon- They gave me a ride to the Spillover Motel!- Patti said she felt really fortunate to get to talk to me in the morning- that was so sweet. I think I gave her confidence to hike out on her sore foot AND also enjoy it! She wants to come hike with me when I hike to Hanover- she is welcome to! Going for my second shower soon- then bed- Dinner was at the White Wolf. Steak, Cole slaw, rice (they were out of roasted red potatoes) Cheddar/Broccoli soup- Yummy!
Monday, June 29th
“0” day at the Spillover Motel- I LOVE it here- community kitchen- friendly staff, it’s perfect- about 1/2 mile to Town. It is hot & sunny today. Staff will give me a ride to the PO to get my package this afternoon- I’ll bring a towel and jump in the lake near the school- bring home something to eat from the store/gas station. They make a bunch of stuff there. Actually looks decent. BMA stays here in the winter when they have races at Sugarloaf. I am pretty tired today. I’ll stick roll- take a nap. Cut up my extra shoes and made river fording shoes out of them! I have too much food again- for some reason it is hard to give up- but I’ll make a hiker box for the community kitchen. I feel emotionally “important” to those I have met. I like this journey- I am enjoying it- even the scary hard parts. People are kind, helpful, curious…if everyone treated everyone like the hiking community treats each other, there would be less grief in the world.
Tuesday, June 30
Ended up hiking 10.6 miles today in 9 hours- going up Crockers was ok- met Branson the dog with a day hiker-going down was more difficult- part over a rock slide- then bypassed Crocker Cirque lean-to. Wanted to get across the Carabassett, which NoBos said was no problem- beautiful place to camp on the north side- but nothing on the south, so ended up climbing out of the valley on a very steep and rocky 1+ mile “trail” then met some NoBo woman who said there is a little spot for a tent by the intersection w/Sugarloaf Mtn. Trail- so that is where I ended up. First clean up with just water from the CNOC [what I collect water in to filter it.] Not great- but adequate. I am tired, but I did it- 2 PHS for dinner- that’s fine too. No service here- darn, oh well.
Wednesday, July 1
It is really hot today- and sunny- summited Mt. Abraham (above tree line) without my pack, which I left buckled to a tree in the woods. Stopped at Orbeton Stream. “Road” is the old RR bed- hottest it has been in the tent- got to submerge & wash in the stream above the falls- went the very steep .1 down to the river crossing but no tenting spot- so came back up- too tired to do the 2.7 more to the next lean-to. I like “stealth” tenting anyway! No service here- I hope to get over Saddlebacks tomorrow- maybe Piazza Rock lean-to- then into Rangeley to resupply (although I do not need much!) Hot in the tent- but a little too buggy out here- so- back to the tent I go.
Thursday, July 2
Big day. Orbeton Stream to Route 4! Perfect day to be above tree line! Breezy, partly cloudy, skinny dipped in Eddy Pond. A nice woman came back after passing me & took me into Rangeley. I did wash in the tub and the guy at the front desk put it in his dryer for me (forgot my socks) but everything else is clean- my crotch is a little chafed 🙁 kinda hurts, but I put coconut oil on it. Went over the Saddlebacks & the Horn it was amazing. Had Sriracha duck wings & arugula & Strawberry salad w/Haloumi- it was fantastic- and 1/2 lemonade 1/2 unsweetened tea- perfect-ran out of water at the summit of Saddleback! Drank from Eddy Pond- there were others (and Maezi the dog) who did the same thing! We were all filtering water! Tight schedule tomorrow- 8 AM breakfast, 9 AM get resupply, check out at 10 AM- shuttle at 11 AM!
Friday, July 3
at Long Pond- stealth tenting. Nice sandy entrance into pond- much nicer than Sabbath Day Pond- gonna try to go watch sunset over the lake! Today was a bit twilight zonish! Heavy pack- just resupplied- and lots of Maine woods, no views, just felt like the moose were watching me all day! No service here- hope Aleta doesn’t worry. Amy & Chris heard from me this morning. Tomorrow starts my last section of Maine!
Saturday, July 4
I lost my fork! 🙁 had it before Bemis Mtn., didn’t have it when I went to eat at the tiny brook I set my tent up at 1.6 miles south of the AT/Bemis trail jct. Was hoping to get done sooner, but the water wasn’t sufficient- this brook is small & cold-but it has a flat place to put my tent- and I couldn’t start trying to get over Old Blue Mtn at 6 pm- and Black Brook Campsite over 4 miles away! (I may take a break there tomorrow if it is nice.) The first part of the Bemis range was the nicest. The main peak was wooded- didn’t see a sign. 12.3 mile day.
Sunday, July 5
I carried my CNOC full of extra water the last 1.5 miles up from Sawyer brook and I am glad I did! There’s a spring about 100 yards south, but it is still. Took some washing water- just my metal cupful- since I went down there. Got cleaned up with CNOC water though! It was tough being that heavy- but the footing was good- and dry, thankfully- a NoBo guy says tomorrow is kinda cruisy! I am ready for that! Maybe 8.3 miles?
Monday, July 6
About 11 miles today- 11.5 + .4 to upper Dunn falls- went for a dip! Felt so good- cruisy woods walking today for the most part – 1 view early- and the falls -met two “just out of high school” guys- Oompa Loompa (Male Jordan) and- I forget the other’s name- tried to eat more today, did just ok. Love the bear box at the shelter.
Tuesday, July 7
Went over Baldpates- maybe 6.7 miles? But I got a message from Hank- he came over and picked me up from the AT parking lot- took me to see Mo at the Grafton Notch Campground-where I showered- and then went into Bethel- he got me a burger (yum!) Checked into the Bethel Village Motel (Ruthie is adorable-kind of losing it- forgetful wise- but so kind.) Took me to Walgreens to try to print pics (wasn’t working very fast- so I aborted that mission) then he left around 5.
I like this place! Gonna go eat again in maybe 1/2 an hour. Rest/Recovery begins! Getting a ride back to the AT 7:30 Thursday AM- Charlie- Nancy was not available.
Wednesday, July 8
“0” at Bethel is great so far, yogurt, strawberries & almond butter for breakfast- hot coffee- then saw a sign for therapeutic massage & got a myofacial massage! Not Kayla- but perfect for today! Second “breakfast” at a food truck- mediterranean salad & eggs w/melted cheddar. And ice cream w/chocolate sauce (gratis). Will go up to the PO & grocery store, but will take a nap first! I finally ate until I am too full- the smashed potatoes put me over the top! Not worried at all! Mussels were great!
Thursday, July 9
2nd hardest day after Katahdin! 11 hours to go 10 miles. Skipped summiting Old Speck (did it already) but made it through Mahoosic Notch (wild!) and to Full Goose shelter- rain and thunder- in my tent now.
Friday, July 10
I did not make it all the way to Gentian Pond! I am at a stream by the bottom of Mt. Success! I still hope to make it to Gorham tomorrow- Big day- 13.3 miles- took me 8 hours to go 8.4 today! Met Graybeard- he’s 91. More power to him! I hope to get a bunch of sleep & a pretty early start tomorrow- will stay at the hiker hostel (camp in their yard) I am in NH now! Done with Maine!
Saturday, July 11
Hiked 13 miles out to Gorham today! The middle felt like hiking on a rail trail compared to everything else I have done from Rte 26! The last 3 miles downhill was pretty impactful-but I still did it in 9 1/2 hours! Not bad! Not a cloud in the sky for most of the day- but chilly morning! I am clean- had a burger- a pint of Cherry Garcia & my clothes are washed! Can’t decide what to do tomorrow- Stop at Rattle River Shelter (2 miles) or go the whole 8 miles to Imp Campsite.
Sunday, July 12
Slept like crap last night! Guy in the tent next to me snored EVERY BREATH! Tried to go inside- fan was like a plane idling. Went out to the lawn furniture for a couple of hours- got a little cold- bird started singing at 3:45 AM- back to the tent until 7 AM until the 1st batch of hikers were getting their shuttle. Had hot coffee, did yoga, ate eggs & homefries. Got a ride back to Rte 2 @ 10- was at Rattle River by 11 AM! But I am weary- so I am taking a Nero here [an ALMOST full day off, which is a “Zero”] feels strange to have my tent set up already- But it is Super lovely here. I will go for a swim soon- relax- recover- rest. It will be good for me- then just 6 miles to the Imp shelter- still on track to get to the Highland Center on the 18th! No service here- but I let everyone know what I am doing.
Wow! It is amazing how tired my body actually is! I took a 2 hour nap and my body did NOT want to move! Went back to the close part of the river after to soak my legs a little more and to get some sun- it feels a bit decadent! Much needed. I’ll eat again soon! There have been a few day hikers here- this is a great day hike from Gorham.
Monday, July 13
I lost my infinite sign bracelet 🙁 -probably putting my pack back on after getting water at Imp shelter. [darn] It was a long day- I got to Imp shelter around noon- too early to stop- so I kept going- but no water at any of the stealth sites & I really wanted to wash & I knew Carter Notch hut had a pond- so I went there! 11 hours for 13-14 miles. Met “Nellie” he talks a lot- but the company was nice- I was faster before lunch- he was faster after- then I skipped Height and he did it- and got in front again! I do NOT need to hear about his stomach illness again though! Totally stealth camping at the pond tonight!
Wednesday, July 15
Didn’t write yesterday because I was too busy trying not to get blown off of my feet on the way up Mt. Madison. Literally was getting blown off of my feet. Winds were crazy & T- Storms were forecasted. Made it to Madison Hut and stayed as a guest. I am bailing on the rest of the Presidentials [2 days worth] will go down Valley Way to Appalachia and start tomorrow at 302. I think it’s a good decision.
Amy Hale picked me up at Appalachia (3.8 mile downhill) will stay at Aleta’s- Stacey will get me at 9 AM and bring me to the Highland Center!
Thursday, July 16
Aleta’s was glorious! Steak & chicken & potatoes & carrots on the grill- yum! Stacey took me to Highland Center where I picked up my resupply- then took me to the AT trailhead and dropped me off in the pouring rain! That one didn’t last long & I dried out pretty quickly- it was a pretty cruisy trail- not that much elevation gain except in the very beginning & very end! Longer rain shower- one clap of thunder & was walking FAST to avoid hypothermia- got to Zealand hut by 3- and got a cup of hot water to drink & wash with & got into dry clean clothes- which I am thankful to have! Weather was clearing and I did not like the hut much! And one of the Croo was not impressed that I asked for a clean dry rag to dry myself with (“We don’t have any to be used for that!”) I ate my meal, made a hot PHS and went about .2 further and stealth camped once I was sure I would not be hypothermic! Tent is up-and dry- I also didn’t want to go up any higher because it would be colder at night! I will be fine! I may throw on my alpaca under my vest JIC! [Just In Case] I also pushed down a dead “tree” that could have blown down on my tent. It came down pretty easy- so I am glad I did that. Funny- I am always a little hungrier the days after I eat real meals! I will be sure to eat a lot tomorrow- if it is nice I would like to get all the way to Garfield Campsite! Vamos a ver! [We’ll see.]
Friday, July 17
At Garfield campsite- had to talk Zoe the caretaker into letting me stay at the dirt “overflow” site. Between 9 & 10 miles today- cool& sunny & a bit breezy- I wish I had the time & energy to get across the Franconia ridge- but didn’t get here until 4 (8 1/2 hr. Day) so I couldn’t risk trying to go another 7 miles or so.
I will get up early & if it is not raining try to get going by 6- that may be tough! Lots of day hikers today- found a pink bandana- probably from one of the groups of teen hikers I saw. One is staying at this campsite, too. They are nice. Saw couple of trail runners today- always wonder where they are headed to! A wonderfully uneventful day!
Saturday July, 18
Left Garfield campsite at 6:05- the teen campers never caught up to me! Took until 8:30 to get above treeline & another 2 hours to cross Franconia Ridge (Lafayette, Lincoln and Little Haystack) also summited Garfield- got a little turned around there and needed Far Out to show me where to go- thought it was the trail I just got up there from- but it was different. Made great time- beating a storm in the afternoon- you could see smoke made the horizon yellow & gauzy. Hard hiking! Then down Liberty Spring trail- couldn’t believe all the people on the ridge in cotton hoodies- or teens w/packs and no shirts going up even though weather forecast was for afternoon T-storms. Learned that the AT crosses under 93- but not at a parking lot! SO Hank had a hard time finding me! And I walked .9 on the bike path to get to the Flume Visitor Center! I am tired- but showered and fed and hanging out w/the dogs! [at Aleta’s] Trying to organize a ride back to the trail on Monday!
Things to do on my “0”:
- Laundry
- Fix shoes
- Go through resupply boxes
- Take a bath (wow! That was great!)
- Put my tent back together
- Check out new poncho
- Charge electronics
- Check e-mail
- Clean H2O filter
Sunday, July 19
At Aleta’s -resting & reorganizing- got my ride back to the trail situated for tomorrow. Amy & Kim Cowles team!
Monday, July 20
got to the Eliza Brook shelter- the brook is really nice- I got to wash up! The Basin-Cascade trail to the AT was gorgeous! It would be a good beginner/intermediate hike- all the way to Lonesome Lake is a bit longer. Crossed the Kinsmans today- coming down south was pretty formidable- steep and rocky- some butt scrooching and tri-dips! Somewhere between 9 & 11 miles under 8 hours. It was a pretty leisurely pace today. And I brought cheese and cherries as one snack & pickles as the other- yummy! I do like having electrolytes as well.
Right now it looks like rain the day I would do Moosilauke- we will have to see how it all plays out. I may stay at a lower elevation than Beaver Brook Shelter- might be cold up there- I will just see what happens.
Tuesday, July 21
Hiked about 6.7 miles then decided to get off at 112- heavy rain forecast for overnight- and the nights have been cold- but rain is supposed to diminish & stop in the morning tomorrow- so I will hike again & try to go across Moosilauke. I am staying in the “glamping tent” at the Notch Hiker Hostel in N. Woodstock, NH. Got off at the Beaver Brook trailhead. 7:40 AM -1:30 PM. Rainy afternoon- slippery downhill rocks- but at least a lot of rock steps- just hanging out now- think I will just eat my own meal tonight. Still undecided. Gonna try to find a map- getting laundry done- that’s nice!
Wednesday, July 22
It is lovely now at Wachipauka pond where I am tenting- Went up Beaver Brook Trail in mist that the sun was trying to break through- and in the clouds over Moosilauke- again-no view. Oh well. I will do this hike again. Beaver Brook trail was tough but beautiful. There is a loon on this pond, I officially have less than 100 miles to go! I am also in the portion of my hike that I have no paper map (until Hanover) but I have Far Out- my itinerary & I snapped a couple pics of maps that have a portion of where I am going. [There are] a couple of beaver lodges on this pond- so water is sketchy- but I will get better water tomorrow. It is a decent size pond so I am not too worried. All is well! I still like it!
Thursday, July 23
This morning was kinda cruisy! Woke up at the pond- saw a loon, a heron and a beaver. Mist Mtn was like a warm up mtn- footing was great. There was a bear that crossed the trail south of Ore Hill campsite- before the gravel road- not interested in me at all. Trail magic at the next paved rd. Ate pickles (and took a pack to go) a peach, plum, cherries, peppers, carrots. It was yummy- and I traded my filtered pond water for distilled water (yucky tasting- but safer.) Mt. Cube was cool, the rock was mostly quartzite, white, pink-green/grey mixed in- super pretty- and I can see Dartmouth Skyway (Smart mtn?) That will be tomorrow. I did 14.3 miles in 9 hours today! I had awful PLG [post lunch gas]- not sure if it was the fruit or the pond water- but it’s better now! I stopped at Jacob’s Brook- fabulous big brook- great place to bathe and wash stuff. Found a place to tent & another woman (Sweep) is tenting here too- the guy she is hiking with (I forget his name) is tenting on the other side of the footbridge. Hexacube Shelter water was lame & far away and there is not good tenting, so I didn’t even go look- this brook & tent site is a MUCH better choice! Thank you guide(s)!! I know you are with me.
Friday, July 24
At Trapper John Shelter- 10.4 miles in 7 1/2 hrs. I am going to try to leave early and make it to Hanover tomorrow-issue is not much reliable water. Slept like crap last night because a guy came in at 8:30 PM- woke me up by setting up his tent near me- and crinkled and made noise all night- I was not very welcoming “I will yell at you if you snore”, “are you gonna settle down soon?!” “BE STILL!” He was gone when I woke up (just before 6am) imagine that! It ended up being busy by Jacobs Brook yesterday- NO ONE else here yet- marginal water, should have filled up at the brook before here- oh well. The quartzite was cool again today & I climbed the fire tower on Smarts Mtn – very cool. Rec Center will be closed when I am there- will need to figure out a plan “B”- maybe Storrs Pond Campground? Not sure. Just have to see how it goes I guess! Vamos a ver!
Saturday, July 25
Send DOC [Dartmouth Outing Club] a donation! The group at Trapper John Shelter were so kind and considerate. Once I let them know I was here & if they could keep it to low voices I didn’t hear a peep! Nothing! Super compassionate. Headed to Hanover after I pack up!
Today was epic! Over 16 miles in under 9 hours- then walking in Hanover as well! Stopped at the Coop & got snacks to supplement my food- called Storrs Pond Campground they had a tent site for me AND they let AT hikers stay for free! So Cool!
So then I went to Molly’s and got a burger & lemonade iced tea. Over Moosilauke was difficult but not crazy hard- and the way was mostly cruisy- some rocks going up Velvet Rocks- but again 95% cruisy steps today- allowing me to hike just under 2 MPH. I did hitch to the campground and got a ride from Allison- who did the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. We said that once you hike like that, you always pick up a hitchhiking backpacker- She turned around for me in a new car! So lucky- so fortunate- I had a really good day today. Also met a woman NoBo who thought she had to walk through a flooded beaver pond- there were planks- but high reeds as well- so I could see how it looked like the trail went through the pond NoBo- I felt bad for her- totally something I would do- but admittedly a part of me was rolling her eyes at her as well! I am still human! Hank is coming down to take me to Tuckerbox in the morning!
Sunday, July 26
Happy Birthday Aleta! I am tenting at Podunk Brook- an inadvertent 7.6 mile “Nero” because there was not a drop of water at Happy Hills Shelter. It is really nice here- a big “tub” in the brook to bathe in- but oops- it is just below Podunk Rd. A small gravel road- I did not realize until my tent was already up. There was a small stream about .8 back- but the NoBo intel was that this one was a better choice- there is a campfire ring here- so hopefully no one will mind. Kinda breaks a rule [no tenting within 2 miles of a road]- but next water is 2 miles away- after W. Hartford Far Out comments (which I just found a bit late! Ha!) Said this is a good place to tent. Not as if I am going to leave!
Hank was great again this morning! He took me to a laundromat to use the dryer. Tuckerbox- to the parking on the NH side of the Connecticut River- so walked into VT. He’s gonna check his schedule for Friday- has to be back by the afternoon- I am thinking I should try to get a ride from Inn at Longtrail to W.R Jct.- doesn’t seem to be a bus! But I will see more when it gets closer. No service at the tent site, so cannot do more right now.
Monday, July 27
Got to Route 12! 14ish miles- tenting at Dan Quinn’s house- nice guy! Got a hot outdoor shower! Ate at his picnic table- tenting by the brook. It is lovely. Passed up his shed. Could go onto his porch if it gets wet inside my tent. There were lots of mtn. Meadows and fields to go through today- they were a challenge because they were so HOT and they made me itch! Lots of up over a hill, down across a road- repeat- lots. I love the kindness of people- Linda- who put out coffee & strawberries & hard boiled eggs- told me about Dan Quinn & told me to tell him she sent me – Dan already knew about me- apparently Linda texted him & said she is sending a wonderful woman his way- Very funny- farmstand is closed but I will have hot water for my coffee in the morning! I hope I can make it to Stony Brook Shelter another 14 (or just under) mile day. Might be rainy- but that’s ok- Wednesday is supposed to be super rainy.
Tuesday, July 28
Rain held off until 3:30- I was at Stonybrook Shelter- set up my tent closer to the brook than the shelter- but used the bear box. Set up the tent- ate (PHS, tortilla & Cheese) washed in the brook- all before the rain started- in my tent now- where I will stay until tomorrow- the mosquitos here are thick! I am surprised I am the only one here so far- saw lots of NoBos today. Probably would have been nicer to stay at the bridge at Stonybrook- but I am glad I got up the short steep hill (ladder and all.)
I moved my tent after dark last night [at Quinn’s] because “Maverick” snored & I was right next to the shed window- but it was great- the full moon was amazing & was all the light I needed! No more ramen! Ate the last of it today! Yay! Won’t be having that again until ski season probably (assuming I work ski school.) Left trap was aching today. I will have time to try to roll it in my tent. No service here though- bummer. Today was my last double digit mileage day! 13+ miles in 7 1/2 hours +/-. My adventure started with afternoon & evening showers- and at the moment it looks like it will end that way as well.
Wednesday, July 29
Got to Gifford Woods in about 4 hours (7 miles). Drippy, but not rainy- got my tent set up & took a hot shower ($12 all together, really $11 – I put 2 tokens [for showers] in the Hiker Box. It is raining now but I hung out for a few hours under the pavilion at the picnic tables by the office. Some guy Roger is running for select board of Killington- gave me a ride to the deli & back! Another act of kindness! Got a turkey & Swiss w/lettuce, mayo & pickles!- Yum! And some cheese to go with tortillas for breakfast, and milk and a Dove bar. I am glad I get one last night in my tent, even if it is raining. Less than 4 miles to finish tomorrow.
Thursday, July 30
AM- last day- So. Much. Rain. Coffee under the pavilion next to the office- my tent is wet and gritty! Left at 8:15 AM and arrived at Maine Jct at 9:30 AM- where I met Giggles, who hiked the southern part of the Long trail and decided to head towards NH on the AT- Via Inn at Longtrail- where we met Guts- who is a fast SoBo hiker. Both took a bath (separately) in my room because I have a tub and they do not (I will wait for mine at home!) It got hot & sunny for a minute this afternoon (thought about hiking up Deer Leap- watched someone rappel down it) then rained again. This morning was very reminiscent of Monteverde Cloud Forest in Costa Rica – just different flora & fauna! What a sense of accomplishment! Also- had Irish Soda Bread (Sasha from the Inn brought me a piece at 2!) Then more w/ my beef stew- and then homemade maple ice cream w/Irish whiskey whipped cream, it was yummy! Giggles had apple crisp- Guts had 2 dinners- stew and shepherds pie- which also looked great! Love the vibe at the Inn at Long Trail- in Room 28 (the room Tom had in 2024) But a MUCH happier vibe!
LOVE THIS! Life is good. I am capable. People are kind. Yay.
Post script
Friday July 31, 2026
1st day of recovery! My last of no hiking was July 19th “0” at Aleta’s- I am due!
Started with 5:30 AM coffee outside of the Inn at Long Trail – coffee outside is nice- even if I see Route 4 traffic. Starting to think of everything I need to do to “clean up” when I get home. Washing and drying the tent will be task #1!
7 PM hour- can’t tell if I am tired- or a touch blue! Maybe a bit of both.
Sunday, August 2
AM. Got a lot done yesterday. Feeling the fatigue though. And the lack of endorphin blues. There was a band at the tiki bar so I went and danced! Made me feel great to move. Saw some people (Tiki regulars) and many commented how great & happy I look – I do feel great. Mail today, Walgreen’s, bath. I am now only having 1 cup of coffee in the AM. I sent out a text to the support team to try to get a day to go to Sweet Basil.
Monday August, 3
I am still losing weight, 119.4 this morning. I realize that on the trail I don’t need to know what day it is- and that I only plan 12-24 hours ahead – I am already “scheduling” myself again! Car goes to get paint fixed today.
Tuesday, August 4
I am restless- I will do pilates- get my bikes out. MAYBE go for a ride. Car is still at body shop, or I’d go for a swim!
Thursday, August 6
Dexascan yesterday. 14 Lb loss in body mass
– 2.6 lean mass- the rest fat mass. Down 5.9% fat mass from 29.9 to 24% -visceral fat down from .68 lb to .51 (-.17) most muscle lost in legs, gain of muscle in arms, very slight loss in torso. Bone Mineral Density in legs is up. Physiological age 47! (From 52!) [My chronological age is 60.]
